Domaine Tollot-Beaut Corton Grand Cru 2017
The Corton differs from the Corton Bressandes in that it grows in a pure southeast exposure, instead of the pure Eastern exposure in the cool climate Bressandes, i.e. here in the Corton we have a much warmer location. Corton itself has more clay and blue clay with a lot of iron at the same time, so we will be more powerful, thicker and less fine both from the exposed location and from the underground, but perhaps a little more typical of Corton in this opulence. This wine has significantly more strength and power than the fine Bressandes. The wines from the Cortonberg are a little reminiscent of Clos de la Roche Grand Cru from the Cotes de Nuits, the white-blue clay and the coolness of the high-lying terroir are probably responsible for this. The grapes are completely destemmed and then fermented spontaneously in the concrete after a cold maceration. Then the malo and expansion takes place for over 18 months in half new, half used barriques without batonnage. Since the 2014 vintage, an optical grape sorting machine has been used in addition to the strict harvest in the vineyard after the de-stripping. This gives the wines an additional level of delicacy and clarity of the fruit, because unripe or incorrect berries are shot out in the air, and stems, black horses or other bycatch do not come through this control. Nathalie Tollot is not a friend of Neuholz. The 1er Crus have about 20-30% and the Grand Crus always only 50% new wood. This Corton from Tollot Beaut actually has a location name, namely "Combes". Tollot does not use this name, however, because they already fill a single layer of Corton with the Bressandes and do not want to have two single-layer wines in the Corton. Everything we have said for Aloxe Corton and Aloxe Corton 1ers Crus, namely that the ripe, warm, dry years harmonize very well with this masculine, black-fruity expression around the Corton, naturally applies particularly to the Grands Crus. So rich and dense, no place for red fruit, only black cherry and prune, some graphite behind it, black pepper. Rich, warm, pushing, pressing, massive, with a nose almost reminiscent of slate, a small touch of Molitor.