Antinori Castello Della Sala Cervaro Della Sala 2018

Compared to the 2017 vintage that shows a more accessible and full-bodied style, the 2018 Cervaro della Sala is a classic edition—it's about as classic as I have ever tasted this landmark white from Umbria to be. This cooler vintage prizes finesse and elegance, and those traits are matched by efforts in the winery to accomplish that same goal. On many levels, the 2018 vintage opens a new chapter for Cervaro della Sala, with a stronger emphasis on preserved lemon, crisp pear and crushed mineral. The wine offers beautiful freshness and linearity. I must also mention that this vintage is released while the fruit is still a bit closed or shy. That slightly reductive approach bodes very well for the wine's future evolution.

The moderate 2018 growing season yielded a Cervaro of outstanding vivacity and balance. Barrel-fermented chardonnay comprises the majority of the blend, contributing a sleek texture as well as notes of toasted hazelnut and vanilla bean that enrich the crisp apple and pear flavors. A small percentage of stainless-steel-aged grechetto adds fresh acidity to balance the wine’s subtle spice and gingery warmth. Delicious now for its combination of richness and verve, this wine will be even better in a couple of years, as the flavors continue to integrate.